Mole Crickets, The Subterranean Pest

If you’ve noticed spongey, dying patches in your Bahia or St. Augustine grass, you might not be dealing with drought or disease—you could have mole crickets. These subterranean pests are a persistent headache for homeowners across Sarasota, Manatee  and Charlotte counties.

 

Spotting the Culprits

Mole crickets look like tiny, subterranean monsters. Measuring 1 to 1.5 inches long, they feature velvety brown bodies and heavy, clawed front legs specifically adapted for digging through sandy Florida soil.

Three main species call Southwest Florida home:

• Tawny Mole Cricket: The most destructive species. They feed heavily on grass roots and shoots.
• Southern Mole Cricket: Primarily carnivorous (eating other soil insects), but their extensive tunneling still tears apart grass roots.
• Short-Winged Mole Cricket: Common in coastal areas; causes severe localized damage because it cannot fly away to new turf.

The Warning Signs in Your Turf

Mole crickets do dual damage: they churn up soil, detach roots from water sources, and actively feed on tender roots and blades.

Look for these key indicators:

• Raised Ridges: Small, bulging soil mounds or tunnels near the surface, especially after rain.
• Spongy Feel: Walking across the lawn feels soft or squishy because the topsoil has been completely detached from the sub-soil.
• Brown Patches: Rapidly expanding, irregular dead zones that don’t respond to extra watering.

How to Test: The Soap Flush

Not sure if mole crickets are causing the problem? Try this simple test:

1. Mix 2 tablespoons of liquid dish soap into 1 gallon of water.
2. Pour the soapy solution over a 2×2 foot area near the edge of suspected damage.
3. Wait 3 to 5 minutes. If mole crickets are present, the soap will irritate them, forcing them to flush out to the surface. Finding more than 3–5 crickets in that small area indicates a heavy infestation requiring treatment.

Timing Your Lawn Treatment

In Southwest Florida, control depends heavily on the time of year. Mid-to-late summer is the ideal window for treatments. Young nymphs are actively feeding near the surface, making them far more vulnerable to treatments than fully grown adults in early spring.